Thursday, March 25, 2010
Road to the sky.
It's hard for me to go anywhere that doesn't involve a bike. I've traveled a ton with Terry, dragging bags and bags of gear, boxes and boxes of bikes, and gotten fairly good at pulling off photo shoots in some really great places but usually with not enough personal riding time. So it was with great joy that I shed my company shackles, ditched the dreariness of NY and went on a dedicated spring training vacation. In style.
Five perfect days of riding and dining in Montecito, CA, is enough to recharge even the most morbidly dead battery. March weather in Santa Barbara County is ideal for road or mountain as is the terrain: extremely challenging, spectacularly rewarding cycling on or off road. Mid 70's, abundant wildflowers, clear, blue skies, nobody around. Although it was a genuine toss-up, I opted for mountain biking and dusted off my Intense Spider–a superstar cross country bike with tubeless tires, XTR and favorite Terry retro-printed Fly saddle. I thought we should both start with fresh legs so I spoiled myself by taking her to a local bike shop for a new chain, cassette, tune up, pack and ship directly to the hotel. Cost nearly as much as my plane ticket.
Wardrobe by EtxeOndo and Terry with a little Gore Bike Wear sprinkled in, just in case. Terry Bella shorts for super technical mountain biking but I also like to mix it up with the occasional cargo skort. Although there are big elevation changes, the weather was so mild and arid that the only adjustment necessary was the occasional addition of arm warmers.
My favorite bike, the Intense Spider and my favorite bottoms, from Spyder. By the way, this is not my favorite vehicle. The Ford Flex is as long as a hearse with way too much (dead) body roll on those Gibralter Road switchbacks.
Although it's one of the toniest zip codes in southern CA, booking a trip during the week makes Montecito an affordable luxury in price and privacy. Most flight options and deals are through LAX but you can also fly into Santa Barbara and avoid the LA area altogether.
Riding involves elevation. Nothing flat here, which is why it's a pro rider training site during the winter. You start sea level and climb straight up Gibralter Road through Rattlesnake Canyon. I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't know about Gibralter Road until this trip and I've actually been to this area before. You have to put it on your list if you're a serious rider. First, because it's an epic climb (the Alp d'Huez of the US) and second, because once up top,
it joins East Camino Cielo (road to the sky) which stretches for miles along a knife's edge that takes what's left of your breath away. Up here, the elevation peaks at 4,000 feet. On your right, the ocean with the Channel Islands in the distance; on your left a sheer drop to the canyon below, with mountain ranges as far as you can see. It's close to heaven and will bring tears to your eyes the first time you ride it. Or you really are dead and no amount of voltage will help.
Other super rides here:
Romero Trail
Gotta love a mountain bike ride that originates from your hotel. From there it's all uphill. The best part is that you're treated to sweeping views of the coastline that just get better and better as you get slower and slower. A couple of miles on pavement, then turn off on the trailhead and prepare for the steepest grade on the first half-mile. We rode the fire road up and tried the singletrack down, although way too technical for my skill level.
Upper Oso
Creeks, sycamores, hot springs and scrub oaks. Ride prepared as the main road can be closed and there aren't any services anywhere.
Knapp Castle
From Camino Cielo, it's a thrilling 2500' drop to the Santa Ynez Valley below. Plenty to see along the way including what's left of Knapp Castle. Nice stretches of singletrack with just a couple of sketchy parts. Ride back through the Santa Ynez Valley and stop at the Paradise General Store for an encounter with those who live off the grid.
Where to stay:
Montecito Inn
Built in 1928 by Charlie Chaplin as an LA weekend escape for his chums, it's historic, right off 101 and very charming. Restored to its vintage Hollywood glamourous self, it has a great bar, easy parking and cruiser bike rentals for buzzing down to Butterfly Beach. Best of all is its proximity to great restaurants, all within walking distance. Rooms are small so bikes have to sleep in the car or locked storage room. Room rates can be had for as little as $129 (keep in mind, this is Oprah's neighborhood).
Breakfast
Jeanine's, al fresco for breakfast quesadillas or scones.
Post ride
Ride directly to the patio at Lucky's for cold beer, slivered onion rings and celebrity spotting.
Dinner (at any of these walkable restaurants, literally within a block or two of the hotel):
• Tre Lune (ate there 3 of the 5 nights; molto bene and molto convenient)
• Lucky's (eat in the bar with the locals)
• Los Arroyos (for massive Mexican on the patio)
Photos: Panoramics and epics by Ron Wu