pdyba::unclipped

London 2012 - Summer Cycling Preview.

2012-03-04T20:22:00.027-08:00

The Terry Summer Collection.

So excited to preview this new group of cycling jerseys, tees and accessories which will debut this summer. With the 2012 London Summer Olympics as inspiration, we curated some jolly good prints for jerseys and commissioned original t-shirt graphics from our resident artists at Terry. Shot on location in Miami by Ron Wu.

Mandarin in Union Jane.

Sungoddess in Off with Her Head.

Breakaway in UK Poste.

Mesh Tank in Union Jane.

T-Dress in Victory.

Flow Tank in Unicycle + Coaster.

Terry T in Outspoken + Le Midi.

Cadence Dress in Floral.

Bike Tee Inspiration

2011-09-28T20:26:00.001-07:00

The classic pinup.

The freedom of the revolution.

2013 :: Art in Motion :: Cycle du Soleil

2011-09-18T19:18:00.000-07:00

International. Colorful. Art in Motion.

Cycling is joyful, expressive, globally powerful in its freedom and mobility. Bicycles themselves are evolving for street and urban expression, in sync with the needs of city residents to use bicycles not only as transportation, but with a desire to be distinctively unique. Bespoke. Original. Customized. No better example of this than in the fixed gear movement, as observed at last week's Interbike trade show. Part poser, part statement, part messenger, the original de-badged, primer-ed frames with handmade accents have been transformed into an explosion of color or stealthy black-on-black matte/gloss combinations.

On the apparel design front, NYC's recent Fashion Week also celebrated the custom creativity of the bicycle with its Tour de Fashion. Not only were the runways filled with bold color and graphic prints (seen below), but the roadways of Manhattan were as well. Handmade bikes from Bowery Bicycles provided the mobile canvas for 30 top fashion designers and offered to stylistas in attendance during the week. Here are a few examples of the bikes, as well as looks from the runway.

The new trend toward brightly colored, highly personalized, bike as mobile art makes me think of Cirque du Soleil. Nothing captures street entertainment or the beauty of human mobility better. International in appeal and influence, the artists' costumes enhance the visual performance: aesthetically graceful and bold; energized and magically theatrical; body conscious styling with ergonomically placed graphics. I love the thought of this approach applied to cycling. Even the name works: CYCLE DU SOLEIL.

Jim's C-Type

2011-04-08T05:54:00.000-07:00

The Jaguar C-Type in the garage is the prettiest thing in Wayne County NY.

Here it is on the day the C-Type arrived in 2002, and the last time Jim officially drove it. For the next several years, he researched endlessly, fabricated windscreens, sought out original jaguar parts that would come in antiquated condition from England and was permanently in pursuit of "the beautiful shift knob" that eluded him on ebay.

The few things I know:
Purchased from William Fox in Cincinnati OH, 2002 (that's the test drive photo above).
Constructed in England in 1965 or 66 as a replica (not kit), by Roger Worrell of Heritage Engineering.
The engine/gearbox/instruments/front and rear suspension are from the donor car which was an S type saloon (sedan).
Engine is as catalogued for a 1965 Jaguar 3.4S saloon and except for polishing of alloy components, the engine is essentially unmodified from stock.

Dimensions (updated thanks to Phil at Jaguar Classics, current makers of modern Heritage replicas).
Wheelbase: 8'2"
Body Length: 13'2"
Track: 4'10"
Width: 5'0"

Tubular space frame steel chassis and custom fiberglass (FRP) and aluminum bodywork that closely resembles a (1951-53) Jaguar C-Type, one of the most beautiful cars ever designed.

Good friends, Steve Rizzo and Christopher Amann were able to get the C-Type going a month before Jim passed away and we drove it to a couple of local car gatherings. Here are photos of the car in its most current finish.

Neckline & General Trend

2010-11-03T19:55:00.001-07:00

Crow Style.

2010-08-22T14:03:00.000-07:00

Native Art and Beauty on Parade.
August at Crow Agency, MT, is home to 1000 teepees, the largest Indian encampment (at least in modern times) in the world. It's the annual Crow Fair, drawing thousands of Native Americans and tourists to the reservation adjacent to the Battle of the Little Bighorn. For 5 days, parades, pow wows and rodeos give a glimpse into the costume artistry, horsemanship and customs of this tribe. I found the women to be fascinating -- covered in elaborate beadwork and even more impressively, packing all the weaponry of the men who were free to be more agile in the hunt.

European Classics / Modern

2010-07-25T16:16:00.000-07:00

Other influences:
* Use of prints and placement on the body -- Etro
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=529Q5nYzqy8

• Cycle Chic -- riding gorgeous, riding real
http://www.streetfilms.org/cycle-chic-in-copenhagen-and-beyond/

Cycling discoveries.

2010-06-20T20:10:00.000-07:00

The Cycling Sa lon is a Portland bike shop run by 2 female dynamos committed to getting more women riding and healthy. Promoting "pedal cures for women," this is one of the few women-specific cycling shops I know of. Georgena's done a podcast with one of the owners. They have a very fun logo/tag line and could definitely sell more branded merchandise. I see a team kit...

Hip pouch from Chrome makes a great alternative to a full-on messenger or backpack. They can also sub as a belt alternative with a tunic length top. I just bought a wee sling made of recycled bits from Bontrager, very reminiscent of Freitag bags.

Men's fashion from Milan, compliments of Moncler (nytimes.com).

Urban riding has spawned some very entertaining pieces like this helmet cover from Yakkay.

Cyclehoops. Thoughtful invention that's helping solve the bike parking shortage in the UK by turning a simple lamp post into a secure bike tether. Leave it to the Brits.

Fyxation tire revelation.

Printed/tattooed leggings from Fox Racing's lifestyle wear -- why not printed/tattooed bike shorts? Fox has published a lookbook and apparel videos on their website which is a very un-sports style form of marketing. Quite interesting and definitely headed into the fashion/runway direction.

Swrve knickers. How can you not love a company that proclaims its women's knickers are cut to perform seamlessly on the bike and stylishly in the world? Available in a variety of fabrications including a winter softshell with fleece lining. Tighter silhouette, thoughtfully decked out with articulated knees, gusseted crotch, higher rear waist. Their men's line is even better and they have a cycling jean being sold through Barney's right now.

Cycle Dog makes collars and leashes out of recycled bike tubes. Okay that's cool but these also have a built-in bottle opener (the pup top) which elevates them to life saver cool.

You talkin to me?

2010-06-15T17:41:00.000-07:00

Best dressed cyclist in Chicago.

That's what I was called by the owner of one of Chicago's hideously busy hangouts one recent Sunday afternoon. I had just sprung for a cropped short sleeve dark denim jacket from G-Star Raw, layered it over a black long sleeve top, paired them with my Terry urban Scooter capris, Sidi bike shoes, vintage scarf and a Rapha cap. Oh, and my Prada messenger bag (thanks Bridget).

Bike Month in the Big Apple

2010-05-06T13:51:00.000-07:00

Whoever would have thought that NYC would become a bike hub. But it is, and not just because the Mayor is gaga for alternative transportation. Bikes and bike culture have permeated 5th Avenue and its window displays. Bike lanes are multiplying, bike events abound. 32,000 cyclists showed up on May 2nd for the Five Boro Bike Tour and the transportation authority claims bike commuting is up 66% since last year.

Some cool stuff worth paying attention to...

Outlier clothing: "tailored performance clothing for cycling in the city." These guys make some awesome stuff for people whose daily lives involve the bike. Lean and sleek "future classics" made locally and not over the top expensive (slacks $180).

And you can't go down this road without stopping at Barney's for a saddle-stitched Henry Cuir bag:

Heralding mass transit for one, Public Bikes of San Fran will be hosting Design Ride Manhattan from the Javits Center to Tretorn where cycle-centric laceless sneaks may be purchased for fun and adventure. The unique Soho shop has its own Scandinavian branded clothing, accessories and eyewear but also stocks bicycles (Kronan and Public) longboards and other things that support a stylishly understated outdoor lifestyle.

Two interesting lifestyle bike shops:
• a dutch-inspired bike boutique for stylish women: Adeline Adeline
• Hudson Urban Bicycles (hub) in the West Village on the corner of Charles and Washington (a recent fashion show highlight: bike locks as belts)

Brooklyn Bike Jumble, May 16th -- a true bicycle flea market.

Taliah Lempert's gallery. Just amazingly impressive and soon to be featured in the Terry catalog!

"Bespoke: The Handbuilt Bicycle" is a new exhibit at the Museum of Arts and Design opening May 13th with a reception and dinner.

Bespoke: The Handbuilt Bicycle displays the designs of six internationally renowned bicycle builders whose work in metal, as well as graphics and artifacts, elucidate this refined, intricate and deeply individual craft. Organized by Michael Maharam, owner of the eponymous textile company and an avid bicycle collector, along with master builder Sacha White of Vanilla Bicycles in Portland, Oregon, this survey is presented as part of the MADProjects exhibition series, which explores emerging trends and innovations in the design world.

The twenty-one handbuilt bicycles exhibited sit squarely at the intersection of design, craft, and art, and include a range of contemporary designs: fixed-gear, road racing, cyclocross, mountain, and commuter bicycles, as well as the stripped-down radonneur, designed exclusively for long-distance racing. The exhibition features bicycles by: Mike Flanigan, Alternative Needs Transportation (A.N.T); Jeff Jones, Jeff Jones Custom Bicycles; Dario Pegoretti, Pegoretti Cicli; Richard Sachs, Richard Sachs Cycles; J. Peter Weigle, J. Peter Weigle Cycles; and Sacha White, Vanilla Bicycles.

Photo Credits

1) Daniel A Norman BrooklynNYC.com (doctored)
2-3) Outlier
4) Barneys.com
5) Public Bikes
6) Tretorn
7) Adeline Adeline
8) NYbikejumble.com
9) Taliah Lempert
10) Pegoretti Bicycles, Italy

Tweeding.

2010-04-26T18:19:00.000-07:00

The newest cycling trend has nothing to do with technology, nor anything new. To the contrary, tweed rides invite wheelmen and wheelwomen to dust off their beloved steel lugged frames, ditch all semblance of lycra and sally forth in rational dress. In the words of the official Tweed Cycling Club:

Style not speed. Elegance not exertion.

Tweed cycle rides originated on London's Saville Row a couple of years ago and are now popping up in all major cities in the US. Even Memphis and Buffalo have rides scheduled in 2010, for heaven's sake. A recent East Bay Tweed Ride included a riding band, prizes for graceful mounts/dismounts and a visit to Berkeley's oldest pub. Rides are first and foremost, social, heavily attended, well-behaved and definitely theatrical.

Not unlike a 2-wheeled costume party, tweeding presents a delightful opportunity for riders to get creative in their attire and accoutrements. Or gay, as the naysayers contend. The movement reminds me of vintage auto events/clubs like the Le Mans Classic and the Goodwood Revival. The latter recreates the golden era (50's - 60's) of motorsport in a 3-day festival complete with period clothing, historic Grand Prix cars and drivers. These gatherings have been in existence for decades but definitely have their roots in a single racing/driving event. It would be wonderful to imagine actual cycling festivals of this magnitude in the years to come.

Implications for Terry.

Not sure this trend is worth developing product for, but it certainly speaks to the cycling lifestyle. Our urban catalog presentations have tipped their hat to this movement for the past couple of years. Whether Dutch biking the streets of Chicago in woolen tunics or dressing to ride on fixed gear beauties, our photographer's presentation of the fashionable urban commuter draws inspiration from the British tweed-iness, but with more contemporary art direction than a Merchant Ivory film. Looking ahead, it presents all kinds of possibilities for classic romanticism, natural fibers, lovely tailoring, fussy accessories.

And then there are the bikes.

This weekend while stuck at O'Hare, I had a lovely cycling conversation with a stylish young gent from Munich, now living in Cincinnati. While not necessarily a tweeding candidate, he did make me think about the need for classic, european-styled city bikes that allow for easy shopping by bike (and that would nicely do on a tweed run). He was lamenting the lack of choices in this category: either ridiculously heavy dutch-style bikes or cheap and crappy hybrids. He had settled on shipping his city bike in from Germany. I'm not certain that tweed runs are a harbinger of bikes yet to come, but the high-minded words of the Tweed Club definitely underscore a different philosophy of need: the roadster.

Discerning cyclists recognise that bicycle technology reached its pinnacle in the early 1970s and everything since is just marketing. Millions are spent every year on hoodwinking the public with obscure materials which are all very well if you are constructing a craft to convey astronauts to the Moon, but quite out of place on an English country lane. Lugged steel, by contrast, is durable, comfortable and offers an opportunity for the skilled framebuilder to practice his craft. Why spend a king's ransom on the latest titanium confection when any weight advantage will be rendered irrelevant by a cheese-and-pickle sandwich and a thermos of soup?

Obviously the purist would resurrect something vintage, but for those of us new to the sport or incapable of a restoration effort, a new steel beauty – mixte included – could definitely be on the shopping list. The classic British light roadster was a 3-speed bicycle built with swept-back handlebars, durability and minimal maintenance in mind for the urban working class. Many of the builders at the Handmade Bicycle Show offer things in this direction, though there aren't many mixtes for women. The Boston Lady Roadster from A.N.T. is a true custom beauty with a curved top tube, 8 speed, coaster brakes, fenders, etc., and about 10 lbs lighter than a Pashley. Lovely review here: lovelybike.blogspot

Since it always comes back to the clothing for me, here are some great resources. Riding Pretty captures it best and certainly was on the forefront of this trend. Dashing Tweeds is a tweed-based textile company that's actually adding technology into the mix, and B. Spoke Tailor is a great resource as well.

Photo credits:

1) sftweed.com
2) montage, courtesy of the Sunday Times of London
3) tweedled gary fisher, courtesy of Momentum
4) big apple tweed ride promo poster
5-7) Goodwood Revival
8) Steven Meisel for Vogue
9) glam gloves, tauntontweedcyclechic.com
10-11) lumatwill cape & cycle suit, Dashing Tweeds
12) triumph badge, tauntontweedcyclechic.com
13) Boston lady roadster, A.N.T.

Vintage Montana

2010-03-29T13:12:00.000-07:00

The style of legends.

My grandparents were all immigrants. They came from the Basque country (on my mother's side) and Germany/Bohemia (father's side). Their lives were unbelievably challenging during the 20's and 30's in Montana yet they had great personal style and very distinctive character that were shaped by their heritage and pioneering nature.

The coyote chaser.
Grandpa Dyba (above, circa 1928) managed to look pretty dapper even as he armed himself with a shotgun, jumped on his Harley and roared off shooting cayutes along the high plains of Montana. In the snow with handmade chains for the tires. He was an expert marksman and made his living at it when times were very hard. My grandmother would drive the Chevy and off they would go chasing antelope, coyotes and rabbits with him hanging out the passenger window. They'd load the hides on a train to Chicago where they'd be sold to Sears Roebuck.

He bought a new car at the age of 96 which he drove with a loaded pistol on the front seat.

Grandma Caricaburu goes to town.

Mary Jane Ader was a French Basque who left her family in the Pyrenees and came to America with the Etchepare family on a sheep ranch in northeastern Montana. She married the very handsome Pierre (Pete) Caricaburu who died just after my mother, the 7th child, was born. Nobody was tougher, or more of a lady, than my grandmother. Faced with foreclosure, floods, fields of farmland and all those mouths to feed, she kept them afloat through sheer determination and hard work. She could make anything -- out of nothing. She even made mud boots look good. Although much admired and very beautiful, she never remarried. In true Basque character: love to the death; fight to the death.

Grandma Caricaburu versus the Milk River.

Spring view from Venice.

2010-03-26T07:31:00.000-07:00

Trendspotting at my favorite SoCal haunts...

Love, love, love Morgane le Fay's spring line. This is an Argentinian designer with stores in NYC, Malibu & Santa Monica only. It's a very artistic high-end collection of dresses/skirts/tops that have a sport nature about them thanks to choice of fabric, fit and structure. Prices are celebrity/socialite level but every piece is a graceful work of art that even a sporty girl can pull off.

On their website, they show a fine cape that was featured on a bicycle in Vogue:

I must say that I found many great new silhouettes this season that got me excited enough to try on. Actually bought a few things at Fred Segal Santa Monica and am still agonizing over a pair of handmade French boots I left behind. The look for spring that caught my eye was all about light layers of different lengths on top; leggings, layered skirts or baggy boyfriend cropped bottoms below. In particular, Alexander Wang (check out spring 10 runway) had really wonderful thinly threaded tops that feel great and have something special about them in terms of proportion. Scored a loose fit, stylized black "football" tank and a cropped heather gray long sleeved pullover that I'll probably wear out this year. I also bought my first pair of boyfriend khakis by Babakul, a casual wear line started by one of the founders of True Religion. I resisted the baggy boyfriend trend a year ago but it looks like it will stick around for a bit and is much more wearable in a cotton khaki than a denim.

Another interesting line combining sport and fashion is Prayer Haute Couture. Super chic, form fitting sweats that are designed for the elite; $400 cropped, short sleeve hoodies and heavily detailed, hand embroidered bottoms from short shorts to cargos. Everything's brilliantly unique and comfortable.

On hip-happening Abbott Kinney Blvd in Venice, I was thrilled to see that cycling has become a primary resident.

First, everybody's riding bikes there to shop/dine/hang out day and night. This is partially due to the ease of commuting to beach and around the canal neighborhoods but it has even more to do with bike as fashion accessory. There's even a cool new bike manufacturer right on the street: Linus Bikes. They make affordable ($350-$550), utilitarian, city bikes inspired by 50's French bicycle design. Models range from fixed gear roadsters to 3-speed Dutch bikes and fendered/racked Mixte.

The latest cycling-related trend to watch is a new fitness concept called Yas.

The only one of its kind in the US (3 centers in CA with more on the horizon), it's a simple combination of classwork -- yoga & cycling. Classes can be purchased individually ($17) or by the month ($225). Founder Kimberly Fowler is an ex pro triathlete and creator of Yoga for Athletes.

Abbott Kinney is a leading avenue for boutiques and the newest of the new. That said, vintage is still a big influence although we're talking new vintage, not the real thing. Lots of distressed tees, washed leather boots and lightweight printed/plaid scarves to wear with casual stuff.

Another notable apparel item I nearly picked up at Heist was from the Netherlands: Humanoid . Very ethereal, lightweight and longer/layered.

Saw a few pieces of G-Star Raw that were intriguing and a review of their most recent runway shows on Style.com cemented them as one of the leading innovators in denim/sportswear. Plus, they're not afraid of color and I find the Fall 10 RTW to be extraordinary. Great skirt silhouettes.

Photos:

1-4) Morgane le Fay
5) Morgane le Fay cape, Vogue
6-9) Alexander Wang SP10 RTW
10-11) Linus Bikes, Venice
12-13) Yas Fitness, Venice
14) Humanoid home page
15-20) G-Star Raw, F10 RTW

Road to the sky.

2010-03-25T11:16:00.000-07:00

It's hard for me to go anywhere that doesn't involve a bike. I've traveled a ton with Terry, dragging bags and bags of gear, boxes and boxes of bikes, and gotten fairly good at pulling off photo shoots in some really great places but usually with not enough personal riding time. So it was with great joy that I shed my company shackles, ditched the dreariness of NY and went on a dedicated spring training vacation. In style.

Five perfect days of riding and dining in Montecito, CA, is enough to recharge even the most morbidly dead battery. March weather in Santa Barbara County is ideal for road or mountain as is the terrain: extremely challenging, spectacularly rewarding cycling on or off road. Mid 70's, abundant wildflowers, clear, blue skies, nobody around. Although it was a genuine toss-up, I opted for mountain biking and dusted off my Intense Spider–a superstar cross country bike with tubeless tires, XTR and favorite Terry retro-printed Fly saddle. I thought we should both start with fresh legs so I spoiled myself by taking her to a local bike shop for a new chain, cassette, tune up, pack and ship directly to the hotel. Cost nearly as much as my plane ticket.

Wardrobe by EtxeOndo and Terry with a little Gore Bike Wear sprinkled in, just in case. Terry Bella shorts for super technical mountain biking but I also like to mix it up with the occasional cargo skort. Although there are big elevation changes, the weather was so mild and arid that the only adjustment necessary was the occasional addition of arm warmers.

My favorite bike, the Intense Spider and my favorite bottoms, from Spyder. By the way, this is not my favorite vehicle. The Ford Flex is as long as a hearse with way too much (dead) body roll on those Gibralter Road switchbacks.

Although it's one of the toniest zip codes in southern CA, booking a trip during the week makes Montecito an affordable luxury in price and privacy. Most flight options and deals are through LAX but you can also fly into Santa Barbara and avoid the LA area altogether.

Riding involves elevation. Nothing flat here, which is why it's a pro rider training site during the winter. You start sea level and climb straight up Gibralter Road through Rattlesnake Canyon. I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't know about Gibralter Road until this trip and I've actually been to this area before. You have to put it on your list if you're a serious rider. First, because it's an epic climb (the Alp d'Huez of the US) and second, because once up top,

it joins East Camino Cielo (road to the sky) which stretches for miles along a knife's edge that takes what's left of your breath away. Up here, the elevation peaks at 4,000 feet. On your right, the ocean with the Channel Islands in the distance; on your left a sheer drop to the canyon below, with mountain ranges as far as you can see. It's close to heaven and will bring tears to your eyes the first time you ride it. Or you really are dead and no amount of voltage will help.

Other super rides here:

Romero Trail

Gotta love a mountain bike ride that originates from your hotel. From there it's all uphill. The best part is that you're treated to sweeping views of the coastline that just get better and better as you get slower and slower. A couple of miles on pavement, then turn off on the trailhead and prepare for the steepest grade on the first half-mile. We rode the fire road up and tried the singletrack down, although way too technical for my skill level.

Upper Oso

Creeks, sycamores, hot springs and scrub oaks. Ride prepared as the main road can be closed and there aren't any services anywhere.

Knapp Castle

From Camino Cielo, it's a thrilling 2500' drop to the Santa Ynez Valley below. Plenty to see along the way including what's left of Knapp Castle. Nice stretches of singletrack with just a couple of sketchy parts. Ride back through the Santa Ynez Valley and stop at the Paradise General Store for an encounter with those who live off the grid.

Where to stay:
Montecito Inn
Built in 1928 by Charlie Chaplin as an LA weekend escape for his chums, it's historic, right off 101 and very charming. Restored to its vintage Hollywood glamourous self, it has a great bar, easy parking and cruiser bike rentals for buzzing down to Butterfly Beach. Best of all is its proximity to great restaurants, all within walking distance. Rooms are small so bikes have to sleep in the car or locked storage room. Room rates can be had for as little as $129 (keep in mind, this is Oprah's neighborhood).

Breakfast
Jeanine's, al fresco for breakfast quesadillas or scones.

Post ride
Ride directly to the patio at Lucky's for cold beer, slivered onion rings and celebrity spotting.

Dinner (at any of these walkable restaurants, literally within a block or two of the hotel):
• Tre Lune (ate there 3 of the 5 nights; molto bene and molto convenient)
• Lucky's (eat in the bar with the locals)
• Los Arroyos (for massive Mexican on the patio)

Photos: Panoramics and epics by Ron Wu

The reality of models.

2010-03-10T07:15:00.000-08:00

Elle McPherson versus Gabrielle Reece modeling swimwear. Heidi Klum or Venus Williams in a tennis dress. Choosing Ford models over real cyclists in the Terry catalog presented the same conundrum: whether women respond better and are more likely to buy products shown on real bodies or "hangers". As a pioneering women's sports brand, we were committed to the authenticity that real riders provided in our communications to customers. We also didn't have the $300 per hour that a catalog model would cost. But as our our apparel business grew, we became more focused on improving product presentation and increasing our revenue. Three things became evident: 1) clothing shot on a body outperformed clothing that wasn't; 2) clothing shot on professional models outperformed the items that were shot on non-models; 3) plus size buyers were more likely to buy clothing shown on regular models, not plus size models.

Were it that simple...

When we showed "real" riders of all shapes sizes and ages, we got love letters from customers, from women's groups, from nutritionists, from our friends.

I wanted to applaud Terry Bicycles for using “real” models in your catalog. It seems to be a growing trend, but one fashioned, from what I can tell, by Terry. It truly allows the consumer to relate to the product on so many levels. Many catalogs introduce their line using models who are so unrealistic in every sense that it is nearly impossible to get the consumer to bridge the distance.

When we used models and elevated cycling wear to fashion, our sales increased by double digits but the letters definitely took a turn for the worse:

I would like to share with you just how disgusted I am with your mail-order catalog. It’s full of stick-thin (and very un-athletic-looking) super-model types with seductive porn eyes that really belong in Victoria’s Secret or some X-rated girly magazine. They look like they couldn’t walk very far, much less ride a bicycle. Maybe this is what you need to stoop to in order to maintain sales, but you can count me out of your market. I used to like doing business with you when you actually featured real women who were committed to bicycling in their real lives, heaven forbid women that were over the age of 22. Imagine! We actually exist out there and enjoy an athletic lifestyle that we value far more highly than (gasp!) the possibility of looking like porn queens in flashy bike-wear. You and our culture, which obviously rewards you for this, are an insult to us.

Ouch.

A look at some other catalogs, marketers and magazines shows that using real people in the presentation of product to women can be used to advantage. Title 9 makes a big deal of integrating everyday athletes into their catalog with a reinforcing caption. No company is more committed to real people than Dove, with its Campaign for Real Beauty, launched in 2004. With tons of press, advertising awards and cudos from women's groups around the world, it has blossomed from a marketing execution to a cultural movement aiming for improved self esteem for girls/women.

Does all that realness translate to the bottom line? Initially, it brought double-digit sales growth though largely from new product introductions and an extraordinary amount of publicity and promotion. Sales began to stagnate in 2007 and really flattened out with the introduction of an offshoot "ProAge" campaign that celebrated women in all their wrinkled glory. Expectations were high, given Annie Leibovitz as photographer, a booming new product category and millions of media dollars behind it.

Reality seems a given for sports editorial content–or is it. I asked a Bicycling magazine editor about the use of models vs real riders and she replied, "why not both?" As the go-to guide for cyclists, the magazine has to be authentic and believable, but they also have newsstand sales to consider. I love this comment and empathize completely:

"What’s really interesting (and aggravating) to me is how often readers will assume that if a female cover model is good looking, then she’s not really a rider. This seems to be less of an issue with the male models."

So the reality is that nearly everybody uses models. I was shocked the first time we went on location to Miami during the March catalog shoot season. All the models, hair/makeup and photographers head there for work during the winter. Huge productions from JC Penney to discounters like TJ Max book weeks at a time with racks and racks of clothing, labeled by the day. They do it because it's efficient, the weather is predictable and, it obviously sells product. The beauty of an actual professional model is that she works fast and knows how to move so you can maximize the day's shoot. She also looks good in sample sizes and won't ask what to do with her hands. All the shots are typically usable, and she'll mix it up so you have a range to work with.

When it comes to the muddled world of fashletics, casting for sports models seems a viable solution. There is, in fact, a west coast agency that represents athlete/models and we've used it. These buff glamazons are ones you also see in Athleta, Title 9, NikeWomen, Lucy and Activa. They tend to be college athletes supplementing their educations with modeling gigs so unfortunately, they're not always good "movers" which translates into more time and stiffness. They're also more muscular which on the surface, seems good but can appear a bit too hard. But give them a soccer ball or a bike and they know what to do with it. Do they sell as much product as a fashion model? No, but it's close and certainly a case can be made for adding to brand credibility.

It's just too bad there aren't more of them, and more of them who ride.

Photos:

1) Terry Summer Catalog, on location in Miami
2) Valley Girls Montana racing team
3) Delana in studio, Ron Wu Photo
4) Dove Real Beauty campaign photo
5) Bicycling Magazine, April 2010
6) Model promo, Sports Models Unimited

Further:

In Its Campaign for Real Beauty, Dove Tells Women That They Are Beautiful as They Are. But the Push Is Showing Signs of Aging September 24, 2007 http://adage.com/article?article_id=120640

Our most fashion forward photo shoot, best selling season, my personal favorite:
http://www.ronwuphoto.com/terry2008preview/

Indoor Cycling 101.

2010-03-04T13:39:00.000-08:00

Higher end clubs have a different dress code than your run of the mill YMCA, even in these difficult economic times. Having just joined Midtown Athletic Club of Rochester, worked out at the East Bank Club in Chicago and spent a week at Denver's premier Greenwood Athletic, I thought I'd pass along some observations and thoughts on future product development.

Spinning®.

Spinning/indoor cycling is the fitness refuge for a huge number of baby boomers looking for aerobic-anaerobic workouts, minus the joint impact. Spinning has gone through a resurgence in the past couple of years as clubs have committed to a more authentic approach to training for real cycling conditions. Some participants are cyclists training in the off-season; many are runners who've worn out their parts. The rest are new people getting exposed to cycling and candidates for taking it outside (my family members, a prime example). Bodies are a spectrum of very fit to kinda thick, and pretty evenly split male/female. It's a sweat fest with fans blowing like crazy, lots of mirrors and the occasional disco ball. Spin classes can run 45 to 90 minutes, with most at 60. The workout is different than a trainer or rollers and involves out-of-the-saddle moves on a frequent basis. Spinyasa is a newer offshoot, less available but an interesting combination of 30 minute intense spin and 30 minutes of vinyasa yoga on a mat.

What they're wearing:

Women appear to start out in their typical gym wear (everything from Lululemon knickers and pants to, heaven forbid, running shorts) but if they take to it, they gear up with real bike shorts (Pearl and Sugoi) or capris and their re-purposed workout tanks with built-in bras. They're also all buying bike shoes, at the direction of guys like Spin Jim and Rider Rick, the real deal in spin instructors. A note about hair. All of them (and this holds true from spin to yoga to pilates) pull hair up in high, tethered ponies and pull everything back with head/sweat bands.

Men are more likely to wear dedicated bike shorts (primarily Pearl Izumi). On top, it's t-shirts, Underarmour or bike jerseys. Most wear actual bike shoes. John Elway wears Pearl Izumi shorts, a Titleist t-shirt, cap and no superbowl ring.

Room for improvement:

Interestingly to me, nobody really makes a dedicated spinning collection. Cycling apparel manufacturers have selected pieces but they seem to be re-purposed or crossover pieces. The originators of Spinning® have a selection of products on their website but most appear to be re-branded.

Bottoms need a decent, more breathable chamois (a thinner version of the Terry Flex Air), and more flattering fit around the thigh. That said, I'd also lobby for fewer seams overall -- it just feels like they add bulk that's unnecessary for a 1-hour class. I wear the Terry Bella short which has a cooling sensation against the skin that may be all in my head but works for me. Although Dryline makes logical sense, it doesn't have the same sensation that the Bella fabric offers. I don't see women wearing super short shorts to spin so something in the 6-7" inseam length is as short as I would recommend. Gripper is overkill on spinning shorts and adds to the heat/bulk factor. One additional comment regarding inseam length is that I find the shorter the short, the more the sausage effect kicks in and needs to be addressed in a more elegant way. There's a streetwear silhouette that's part of Prada's RTW Spring 10 line that I like and think would be good to try to integrate into a cycling short: few panels; wide, low, elastic-free waist; self-fabric banding at leg opening; light, satiny fabric (more lycra/spandex content).

Tops are where the challenge and opportunity lie. They have to wick, feel good, and shouldn't be super tight. Lululemon has a cleopatra halter style this season that is impossible for me personally to pull over my head but that I've seen on more than a few women. It has a t-back made of mesh. Mesh inserts on both the front and the back make a lot of sense. Additionally, tops need to have plenty of length for coverage while stretching. I find most of my workout tops are too short right now, particularly when going from spin to yoga. My current go-to top is a whisper-light Craft ProCool racer-back singlet that's meant to be a base layer and consequently shows every lump and bump which isn't ideal. It wicks like crazy and has enough length so I default to it. I'd like to try a YMX tank which, although body forming, is so light that you don't feel it and the print camouflages the lumps. Subtle use of prints is okay but most tops tend to be solid and fall into the neutral zone of black and white. In terms of silhouette, necklines can be lower but still need to protect from a full reveal in an aero position. Shelf bra should primarily be made of mesh or have a body-mapped mesh v in front. Pocket only if it can be added without double layer of fabric (or use mesh). Prices for the tops I've looked range from $50 to $65. Here are some interesting silhouettes and details for styling cues:

Photos:

1) Stella McCartney for Adidas
2) Google spinning reference
3) dhb cycling wear (UK)
4) Style.com/prada runway
5) Vogue/prada ad
6) Lululemon Swift tank
7) Shebeest Silverbella Halter
8) Sugoi Fizz Tank
9-10) Athleta Juliet Inspire Tank

Further:

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/24/fashion/24Fitness.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1